Crossroads of the West
Fort Laramie, Wyoming
by
Gary B.
Speck
The North Platte River leaves Wyoming
eight miles southeast of Torrington.
Some 200 miles to the southeast at North Platte, Nebraska,
the North and South Platte Rivers
combine and slowly flow across Nebraska,
joining forces with the Missouri River just south of Omaha.
This great river rolls across America’s mid-section, and its
banks were used as a “highway” for most of the mid to late-19th Century. Countless thousands of people headed west,
walking, rolling handcarts, or riding in long wagon trains from the beginning
of the Oregon/California/Mormon/Pony Express Trails in Missouri.
These hardy pioneers began their journey in the early 1840s
when the rich farmlands of Oregon created America’s first
mass migration west. The Oregon trek was followed in rapid succession by the
California Gold Rush, and the Mormon migration to Utah. In fact, by the early 1850s, there were as
many as 50,000 people a year using the trails along the Platte.
Squatting on a nearly treeless plain, tucked into an ox-bow bend on the
north side of the Laramie River a mile southwest of the Laramie’s
confluence with the Platte, Fort Laramie grew into a crucial military outpost deep in
the Wyoming
wilderness. It was a major crossroads
for a nation moving west as well as a welcome travel respite from the rigors of
the road. Here countless thousands of
emigrants would stop and rest, and re-provision for their continued journey
across the high plains of Wyoming. Later, it also was a major stopping point
along the trails heading north to the Black Hills of South Dakota and south
towards the Colorado
mines.
However, Fort Laramie
wasn’t always an important military post along the trails. It began in 1834 as a cottonwood log-walled
fur trading post known as Fort
William, named after
fur-trader William Sublette. He
established his outpost at the confluence of the Laramie
and North Platte Rivers
to trade fur with the Sioux and Cheyenne
nations. A year later he sold it to Jim Bridger and several others who in 1836,
sold again to the American Fur Trading Company.
The post rapidly grew and became a well-known trading post and the first
major American outpost of “civilization” in the western plains.
In 1841, a
competing fort, Fort Platte, was built on the Platte River,
about a mile away. Old Fort William
was abandoned, and relocated a mile to the southwest, at the tip of an oxbow
bend in the Laramie River. The new adobe-walled trading post was renamed
Fort John, after John B. Sarpy (Sarpy Co., NE
also named for him), one of the partners in the American Fur Trading
Company. It was also called Fort John-on-the-Laramie,
which became shortened to Fort
Laramie.
As the emigrant
traffic increased, the post’s importance grew.
It soon eclipsed Fort
Platte, which was
abandoned in 1845. With an increase in
traffic along the river roads, Indian problems began to develop. Finally in 1849, the US Government purchased
the holdings and built it up into an important military post whose main mission
was to protect the travelers on the Platte
River roads. In addition to being a military garrison, the
fort also served as a stage station, Pony Express stop and continued to serve
as a traveler’s stopping place. Fort Laramie
was a major staging point for many military forays and expeditions sent out to
explore the West. Because of its open
and easily defensible position, it was never enclosed by a wall or barricade of
any kind.
After the
military occupation began, a building program ensued, many of which buildings
remain today. A post office opened on March 14, 1850, and is still in
operation. It is the longest operating
post office in the state. For 41 years
the post saw a lot of activity, but no major battles were fought at the
site. Two major treaties between the
Indians and the US Government were signed here in 1851 and 1868.
The units that served here included:
- Mounted Rifles (1849-1851)
- 2nd Infantry (1855, 1859)
- 4th Infantry (1867-1870,
1874-1882)
- 6th Infantry (1849-1857)
- 7th Infantry (1856-1858,
1882-1890)
- 9th Infantry (1874-1877)
- 10th Infantry (1855-1856,
1860-1862)
- 14th Infantry (1871-1874,
1876-1877)
- 18th Infantry (1866-1867)
- 23rd infantry (1876)
- 2nd Dragoons (1855-1860)
- 4th Artillery (1855-1856,
1858-1859)
- 2nd Cavalry (1866-1869,
1872-1877)
- 3rd Cavalry (1875-1880)
- 4th Cavalry (1862-1863)
- 5th Cavalry (1869-1871,
1880-1883)
- 1st Kansas Volunteer Cavalry (1865)
- 8th Kansas Volunteers (1862)
- 9th Kansas Volunteers (1862)
- 16th Kansas Vol. Cavalry (1865)
- 6th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry (1862-1863)
- 11th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry (1863-1865)
- 7th Iowa Volunteer Cavalry (1863-1866)
- 1st Nebraska Volunteer Cavalry (1865)
- 3rd & 6th US
Volunteers (1865-1866)
- 6th West Virginia Cavalry (1865)
- 12th Missouri Cavalry (1865)
- 6th & 12th Michigan Volunteer
Cavalry (1866)
During
the 1870s, about three miles west of the fort a small collection of buildings
popularly known as the Fort Laramie Hog Ranch catered to the baser instincts of
humanity. Here diversions such as girls, gambling and
grog could be enjoyed. The businesses
catered to both the military and any civilians in the area. The old “Hog Ranch” is located on private
property and is off limits, but it is said that there are ruins are still
visible. On April 20, 1890, the fort was decommissioned, and all the land and
buildings were sold at auction. Many
buildings were stripped of their usable materials and the empty shells were
left to die in the High Plains weather.
Some were occupied, while others torn down for their building
materials. About a dozen structures were
preserved by their owners, forming a nucleus for future renovation. Then in 1938 the federal government
re-purchased the property, and on July 18, 1938, Fort Laramie
National Monument was
born. Restoration or reconstruction to
original standards began, and the old post began to look like it did in
1888. On April 29, 1960 Fort Laramie National Monument
was renamed Fort Laramie National Historic Site.
Fort Laramie National
Historic Site is located on north side of the Laramie River, a mile southwest
of its confluence with the North Platte River, three miles southwest of the
present town of Fort Laramie
and 20 miles west of Torrington.
The present
site includes 11 restored buildings as well as ruins of many others. Most of the sites of missing buildings
including the foundation outlines of Fort
John are also well
marked. A museum shares the life of the
military, civilians and Indians in the area.
Some of the
buildings include:
A large,
two-story wooden structure with wide porches once housed the Bachelor Officers
Quarters. Originally built in 1849, this
building is more popularly known as “Old Bedlam.” According to the National Park brochure,
“...it is the oldest standing building documented in the State of Wyoming.” Various sections of the building have been
restored to different time periods. The
brochure also says that the origin of the nickname is unknown. Personally I have my own theory, gleaned from
two years of US Army duty stationed in Germany. Our barracks were in bedlam in the evenings
and weekends.
I don’t think
things have changed.
The enlisted
men’s barracks was the largest building, being over 300 feet long with thick
lime-concrete walls. The second floor
contained a large dance hall. Today it
is a roofless ruin on the east side of the compound.
The
adobe-walled, Sutler’s Store, according to the 1941
WPA Guide to Wyoming, “is probably the oldest building now standing in Wyoming.” It not only served as a store, but also as a
bank and community center. WPA dates it
to the 1830s, but most other sources date it “only” to 1849. Fort Laramie
is a wonderful place to spend a relaxing day exploring and reliving what life
must have been like 150 years ago. I
fell in love with this old fort the minute we drove into the site. Yes it is a popular destination, and we even
shared the site with a tour bus full of senior citizens. After all, this was a popular stopping place
on the Oregon Trail for westward-bound emigrants over 150 years ago, so why
should we history-loving followers of Ghost Town USA not join ‘em?
Fort Laramie is the type of site that gives us all a
hands-on feel for the past. Here history truly still lives, and for a couple of
bucks you can relive it.
This was our GHOST TOWN OF THE MONTH for
November 2002.
This is one of the towns
featured in my newest book, GHOST
TOWNS: Yesterday & TodayTM.
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THIS
PAGE
FIRST
POSTED: November
03, 2002
LAST
UPDATED: March 20, 2005
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