Mogollon
Catron County, NM
By
MOGOLLON, New Mexico is one of America’s classic ghost towns although
technically it ranks as a Class D
mining town. Located deep in the
northwestern end of the Mogollon Mountains this wonderful old town is tucked
deep in a wrinkle in those rugged southwestern New Mexico mountains. This is truly a town that time has forgotten,
although people are slowly repopulating it, restoring some of the old
buildings, but NOT destroying what makes this place so special. I think it’s the isolation and the low key
approach that makes this place attractive.
Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, the reason it hasn’t adopted the
tourism tactics many towns in like condition have done is the fact it’s just so
hard to get to. The state highway going
in looks OK on a map, but in real life is a brutal, testing drive that is best
made with a smaller vehicle and a lot of patience. It is narrow.
It is unlined. It has steep
drop-offs and embankments. It has few
places oncoming cars can pass safely.
Believe the posted speed limit.
In fact if you can go faster than 25 mph you take a chance of a nasty
encounter on one of the numerous blind curves.
‘Nuf said!
Mogollon’s
story drifts back to the great mining rushes in the late 1870s early
1880s. Like most old locations, the
original discovery story has gotten hazy with time and several stories are out
there. Suffice it to say that gold was
discovered in paying quantities. A town
was established at the bottom of Silver Creek Canyon, a steep-walled defile
where the creek runs down beside Main Street.
The twin scourges of multiple fires and floods have created character
and toughened the residents. What remains is a monument to perseverance and the
spirit of hanging in there despite what nature could throw.
Entering
Mogollon is a visual treat. Rounding the
last curve on the steeply descending road, Mogollon jumps out, its west end
rock and adobe buildings shouldering right up against the road like a sally
port on an old castle. It is probably
one of the most dramatic entrances to any ghost town in the country. Once through the narrow gap, it is best to
find a place to park and wander the single main street of town and sample all
it has to offer. Here is life interrupted. What remains of Mogollon is a monument to its
isolation and the tenacity and protectiveness of the handful of people that
still live there, preventing it from becoming another ravaged Class C ghost.
I
like Mogollon. In fact it is firmly
entrenched on my list of top 10 ghost towns in the country. Depending on who you
ask, this old town’s name is pronounced either “Moh-Gee-YON” or
“Muggy-Own.” It is probably named after Juan Ignacio Flores Mogollón,
the Spanish governor of the Province of New Mexico from 1712-1715.
Stringing
along the main street for the length of the town are a
batch of historic buildings. Starting at
the west end entrance is the old adobe J.P. Holland Store housing the operating
Silver Creek Inn bed-and-breakfast on the north side, and a row of rock
buildings on the south. The easternmost
building of that triplet houses one of the town’s museums. Further up the
street are the old theater, a two story hotel-looking building, and old saloon
that has been converted into a home and the building
now known as the Old Kelly Store. The
former post office (1900-1969) has been restored and operates as the Purple
Onion Café. At the upper end of Main
Street a couple rundown false fronts built for the 1973
“Spaghetti Western,” My Name is Nobody, staring Henry Fonda and Terence Hill
find themselves gracing more books and articles than the real buildings. Other structures of note
include the weathered Catholic Church, a small log cabin and a restored home
that now houses the town’s cemetery archives.
Several mining carts, rusty old car shells and a non-operable gas pump
add character to the old town. Cabins both occupied and empty lie scattered
along the road and a few are spotted up on the hillsides. A cemetery and the ruins of the Little Fannie
Mine lie on the outskirts, the mine visible across the canyon when entering the
town.
The
town dates to about 1889 and boomed through the 90s and into the early
1920s. Yet for the first decade of this
wild town’s life, there was no road in:
just pack trails. In 1897 the
road was cut into town, but it in reality is not much better than a wide, paved
pack trail. In the mid 1910s, the
population of Mogollon is said to have been in the 1500-2000 range, although
some wags have pegged it at 6000. When
you visit, you can see why I question that number. There just isn’t any physical room for than
many people here!
Nevertheless,
Mogollon was truly a cranking boom town with a long narrow main street lined
with all the appropriate businesses, including saloons. It even had a pair of red light districts
anchoring each end of town. However all
good things seem to end, especially red hot mining towns, and Mogollon was no
exception. The Roaring Twenties didn’t
roar here, and by 1930 the population had decreased to 200. The mines closed down in 1942, and some $20
million in silver and gold was the end result.
As always, when you visit, please respect
the rights of the property owners and always abide by the Ghost Towner's
Code of Ethics.
This is one of the towns featured in my newest book, GHOST
TOWNS: Yesterday & TodayTM.
This was our Ghost Town of
the Month
for June 2011
LOCATION:
Elevation
6614’
E-Ctr Sec 33, W-Ctr Sec 34, T10S, R19W, New Mexico Prime Meridian
Latitude: 33.3967283 / 33° 23’ 48” N
Longitude: -108.7942288 / 108° 47’ 39” W
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THIS PAGE
FIRST POSTED: September 01,
1998
LAST UPDATED: July 03, 2011
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