CARRIZOZO
Lincoln County, NM
By
CARRIZOZO
IS NOT normally
on most people’s ghost town lists, yet this colorful, charismatic class E community is well worth visiting. Even though it isn’t a ghost town in the purist’s sense
of the word, it definitely falls into our definition of a ghost town, or more properly,
a semi-ghost. Even that is a subjective
call since the population trend has been pretty well stabilized at about half
of what it was during its boom years between 1910 and 1923. History seeps from the buildings along 12th
Street and an unmistakable aura of the past exudes from the cracked stucco and
adobe brick buildings lining what the Carrizozo Art and Antiques website
calls the “Epicenter for Art and Antique activity.”
On
Sunday morning, July 4, 2010, Ghost Town
USA paid this historic old town a
serendipitous visit. My intent for the
stop was strictly for refueling & lunch.
After eating, I always enjoy checking out the old downtown cores of most
towns I pass through, looking for hidden gems.
WOW! Carrizozo’s old downtown was
a true gem. Nearly abandoned, what few
occupied buildings that remained were mostly given over to the visual arts,
with a handful of art
galleries and a couple
antique shops scattered about. I parked
my car, unlimbered the camera and strolled the streets shooting a plethora of
photos of buildings on which bright orange, fluorescent violet and vibrant reds
& blues contrasted with fading
advertisements,
peeling stucco, battered bricks and crumbling adobe. Weathered wood siding and drab stucco walls
were decorated with an almost infinite variety of artistic endeavors. Nineteen colorful painted burro
statues watch from roof
parapets, fence
tops and the sidewalk,
while a muffler &
piston armadillo
wanders about the
sidewalks accompanied by a rusty
cowboy and some type
of wheelbarrow
critter. While taking photos of the sculptures and
buildings, one of the local artists noticed me and invited me upstairs to the
second floor artist’s loft working area of the 1917 Lutz Building for some unique views of
town. The colorful buildings along 12th
street were visible to the north
and the west. On
the beautifully weathered wood stairs artist Patsy Sanchez’s “World’s
Most Privileged Burro” and
a bejeweled female bust shared space with the artists heading upstairs
for work, or downstairs
for home. Other scattered artistic jewels around town included a lizard
door, tin
can lid ants and Jason
Kehrer’s 2008 scrap wood sculpture “Sunday
Afternoon.” The
above-mentioned burros are produced by Gallery 408, then painted/decorated by
various artists and offered for resale.
Carrizozo has one thing lacking that I DID NOT miss - the touristy
commercialization of Jerome, AZ or Madrid, NM.
Don’t get me wrong. I love both
of those towns, but they have both become trendy artist colonies where artists
cohabitate with the ghosts. In this pair
of old historic mining towns the ghosts have pretty much been pushed out to boothill and forgotten.
Both communities consider themselves historic old mining towns on the
road to rebirth – not ghost towns. For
Carrizozo’s non-commercialization I was grateful.
Carrizozo’s
life was in a way tied to the death of another town – White
Oaks. In White Oaks, the
residents heard about the railroad desiring to come to their booming mining
camp. Dollar signs flashed and greed got
in the way. The railroad decided against
paying extravagant prices for land, so in 1899 they established a station a
dozen miles to the south at the future site of Carrizozo. The El Paso &
Northeastern Railroad turned that station into a division point and
maintenance/service center and built a large brick roundhouse and maintenance
shops. Carrizozo quickly developed into
an important trading and shipping center with daily stages departing for and
arriving from a fading White Oaks. Part of Carrizozo’s importance was tied to
the rich coal mines at Capitan. With
Carrizozo’s location at the mouth of the wide valley leading to the mines, it
was busy. In 1902 the still active post
office was established and in 1907 the town was officially platted. Some of the businesses at that time included:
1st National Bank, a Baptist Church, two drug stores (Dr. Paden’s,
and the Rolland Brothers’), railroad hotel and the railroad buildings.
In
1913 Carrizozo was designated the Lincoln County seat, much to the chagrin of
the folks in Lincoln. This ushered a
decade of boom which ended in the early 1920s when a recession dogged the area,
causing the bank to fail in 1923. That
failure coupled with a crippling railroad strike, drought and the resultant
downturn in the cattle industry nearly killed the town. One of the bank
officers, Arthur Rolland also had to sell his drug store and declared
bankruptcy. The new store owner kept it
open and Rolland eventually leased it back from the new owner. A year later, Rolland built a new building
and reopened his own drug store, putting the nearly disastrous past behind him.
During
the 1930s, roads replaced railroads for carrying freight, diesel locomotives
began replacing coal, and the railroad shifted some of its operations
elsewhere. In 1937 the El Paso &
Northeastern Railroad declared bankruptcy and the roundhouse and shops were all
sold and scrapped. One bright spot in
this generally dismal economic time was Arthur Rolland’s Drug Store. It served as the town gathering spot and the
soda fountain continued to employ local kids, helping families manage to
survive through the Great Depression.
Rolland finally sold the business in 1950 and it continued under different
names until the 1970s. The building is
listed on the New Mexico State Register of Cultural Properties.
The
other drug store was operated by Dr. Paden, and was a two-story, brick
structure built between 1906 and 1910.
He operated his medical office, a drug store and a soda fountain downstairs,
while a small hospital was located upstairs. In 1934, he sold it to Red Eaker who continued to operate it for a number of
years. Like Rolland’s store, the Paden/Eaker store went through several ownership changes and in
1978 was purchased and reopened as Roy’s Ice Cream Parlor. Somehow I missed this old building.
Today,
a number of identifiable and some unidentifiable buildings remain, including:
the aforementioned Roy’s Ice Cream Parlor, the two-story Lutz
Building, the Gas
Company building, a Ben
Franklin store, a red-roofed
structure, a large two-story
adobe building, the Lyric
Theater and an old
restaurant with an interesting set of double
doors – one labeled
“DRINK” and the other “EAT.” Looking at the details presented on and about the
town’s buildings brings this old community to life. Things like a shoe
shine stand, a pressed
tin ceiling under a store canopy
and a wonderfully artistic, OLD script
sign lift the old
buildings out of drabness and share a little of the glory that once was. You can almost feel the folks from its glory
days walking by on the sidewalks
Carrizozo
is about as much fun to visit as it is to spell, or even say. I really liked this old town, and eagerly
look forward to visiting again. If you
do come to visit, be sure to get off the main highways and visit the unique,
colorful downtown core that is a true visual treat. The downtown core lies along 12th
Street, which is a block southeast of US 54 (Central Ave) and two blocks
northwest of the railroad tracks just southwest of the junction of US 54/380. Carrizozo is located southeast of Socorro,
north of Alamogordo and west of Roswell in the south-central part of the state
of New Mexico.
As
always, please abide by any sign postings and respect the rights of the
building and land owners.
This was our Ghost Town of the Month
for November 2010.
POPULATION
TRENDS:
1910-1920 – 2000+ (approx)
1930 – 1171
1950 - 1389
1970 - 1123
1980 – 1222
1990 – 1075
2000 – 1036
2010 – 996
LOCATION:
Sec 2, T8S, R10E, NM Principal Meridian
& Baseline
Latitude: 33° 38' 30" N / 33.6417408
Longitude: 105° 52' 38" W / -105.8772120
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FIRST POSTED: November 05,
2010
LAST UPDATED: May 01, 2011
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