Chesterfield, ID

One of these later types is Chesterfield, Idaho. Despite the fact some 27 buildings still stand, the permanent population is ZERO and it’s readily accessible by passenger car, few people ever visit this pioneering community.

My discovery of this fantastic little agricultural ghost was one of those word-of-mouth, over the water cooler, “Oh, by-the-ways.” Several years ago I worked with a gentleman named Jerry, who knew of my avid interest in ghost towns. One morning at the office water cooler, we were filling up our cups when he commented about seeing a newspaper article about an old farming town up in Idaho. “Can’t remember the name or where it is, but...”

The next morning, he brought in a copy of the August 24, 1996 edition of the LDS (Mormon) Church News. After seeing the photos and reading about the old town, there was no way I was going to miss this place.

Three years later (August, 1999), we were in Idaho Falls, and I picked up a copy of the Visitor’s Guide to Southeastern Idaho brochure from our motel lobby. I read the following:

“...The Mormons built Chesterfield, intending it to be a town of size and importance,

but it was not to be. Today, Chesterfield is nearly-abandoned, but it is one of the

best-preserved western villages of the nineteenth century, and is listed as a National

Historic site...”

I turned to my wife and said, “Guess where we’re going tomorrow morning!”

The next morning, about 55 miles after leaving the motel, we turned the last corner, passed a couple abandoned buildings, and on a low grassy knoll read a small wooden sign – “HISTORIC CHESTERFIELD SETTLED 1880".

A short distance away was what looked like a school building, with a pickup truck parked out front. We pulled up beside it, and our adventure began. The early morning sun played hide-and-seek with gray rain clouds, highlighting the bright orange-red brick buildings and danced on the green and russet fields. The restored building turned out to be the community’s second school building, built in 1922. At the time of our visit in 1999, it served as a small visitor center and museum. According to the Chesterfield Foundation web site, that building was struck by lightning and burned in 2000.

Just a hundred yards to the south, the melodic strains of an organ could be heard coming from the open doors of another brick building, the former church.

A gut feeling said this was going to be a unique visit.

I had no sooner zipped up my windbreaker when people appeared from nowhere. “Sister” Betty Brown introduced herself to us then guided us into the school building. To say these folks were friendly would be an understatement. They were proud of the community and the restoration efforts being made as a mission outreach of the Mormon Church.

Chesterfield’s beginnings date to 1879 when Chester Call (a Mormon bishop) and Christian Nelson arrived in the Portneuf Valley. They were convinced this would make an excellent place for a new community, so they established a ranch against the hills, in the northeastern part of the valley. They sent word of their discovery, and in 1881 a group of Mormon settlers moved up from the Salt Lake area, establishing farms in the upper Portneuf Valley. A railroad was routed up the western side of the valley, and a sawmill established about ten miles to the south. A community center was needed, so a meetinghouse was built. The seeds of civilization were sown.

In 1883, church officials visited the area and suggested a location nearby to establish a “real” town. The location had a wonderful view, and it is said one of the officials thought the area reminded him of Chesterfield, England. Since the founder of the community was also named Chester, the name was adopted and lots were surveyed. Ownership of the lots was determined by a lottery. However, the land didn’t produce crops as well as anticipated. Building construction slowed since money was tight, and material was scarce.

By 1890, 61 families, totaling 339 people, had arrived. The folks lived in houses ranging from dugouts to fancy brick homes. Non-residential establishments included a brick kiln, the brick church, a log school, brick “tithing house” and assorted support structures, a large, brick meetinghouse (community center) and a log store.

The tithing house is unique to Mormon communities. Mormons give 10% of their income (cash or products) to the church, so the tithing house became the central “bank”, warehouse and distribution center for those in need. It was operated under the auspices of the ward’s Bishop, thus enabling the community to take care of its own.

School and education were also important. The original school building dates to the founding of Chesterfield, and was built of logs. It was replaced in the early 1900s by a large brick and stone schoolhouse that burned in 1921. The third school, which now houses the museum, was then built to replace the burned one.

By 1900 the population was 418. Sheep and cattle raising, and dry farming were still tricky. Despite its beautiful location, life was difficult at best. The settlers gathered together and participated in dances, wood cutting trips, ice-skating parties, and baseball games. There were sewing bees, debates, and music. The settlers were active in their church, and the melodious strains of music could often be heard wafting across the town site. Due to its isolation, Chesterfield was a close community in which the people relied on each other for their very survival.

Chesterfield never officially incorporated as a town or village. The church was the center point of the community, which would more properly be considered a “Mormon Agricultural Colony,” rather than a town. Despite the surveyed lots and a few buildings, no “real” town ever developed at the site.

Chesterfield was the parent community in the area, seeding a half dozen other villages and small towns, some of which have also ghosted. The population of Chesterfield fluctuated up and down. Crop failures, lack of water, sickness and diversions of an easier life elsewhere, drained off the settlers. Chesterfield foundered and died, almost unknown to the outside world. It didn’t sit near any major highways, nor along a transcontinental railroad, or near a large city.

Because of its isolation, Chesterfield died quietly and was forgotten by all except those who scratched out a living in this little community, or on the neighboring farms. In the book, Chesterfield: Mormon Outpost in Idaho, F. Ross Peterson says,

“There were arguments and dissensions, yet the settlement is remembered as a

place where family and friends grew into remarkable pioneers.”

Farming still continues around Chesterfield, but the folks live in Bancroft, and other nearby communities. Chesterfield stands secure on its knoll overlooking the Portneuf Valley, waiting for visitors to walk through the abandoned site marveling at the toughness of the early pioneers.

After a short history lesson on the old town, I commented that I’d like to wander about the site and take pictures for an article I was going to write. After we said goodbye to Betty, her husband drove us up to the top of a local hill for some good photo opportunities.

Chesterfield is a ghosttowner’s paradise. The well-populated cemetery with its many stories imprinted in wood, marble and granite is only one attraction. There are restored buildings; standing, unrestored structures; and a plethora of ruins and oddball items all worthy of film.

It does feel strange walking the streets of this former community, thinking about the hopes and dreams and problems these hardy, pioneering souls faced. There is absolutely no question about it, life here was tough.

Yet they survived.

As the crow flies, Chesterfield sits about 28 miles east of Pocatello. By road, it’s a little more roundabout. Go south on I-15 for 25 miles and exit at McCammon (US 30). Go east on US 30 for about 18 miles. A sign at Lund, at the bottom of a steep grade, points north. Turn left and 15 arrow-straight miles later you’ll reach the northern end of the Portneuf Valley.

Chesterfield’s restoration is still in progress, and everywhere we went across the site, we were greeted with smiles and a wave. Even though my wife and I are not Mormons, we were made to feel welcome, and I feel the folks that watch over this wonderful little ghost of the past would have given us a personal guided tour if we had the time.

Deep in the southeastern corner of Idaho, within spitting distance of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, Chesterfield is one of the most interesting and unusual ghost towns I’ve ever visited. As Peterson also says, “Because it was built to last – but abandoned – it is there to preserve.”

Such is Chesterfield’s pioneer legacy.

This is one of the towns featured in my newest book, GHOST TOWNS: Yesterday & Today^TM^.

Location:

· SW¼ Sec 28, T6S, R39E, Boise Meridian/Baseline

· Latitude: 42.8668622 / 42° 52’ 01” N

· Longitude: -111.9019032 / 111° 54’ 07” W

This was our GHOST TOWN OF THE MONTH for April 2002.

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