China Camp and Mount Diablo coal-mining towns, California

Shrimp, Coal and Ghost Towns

200+ years of history have left their indelible impression on the San Francisco Bay region of California. Here in one of the state's most urbanized regions, followers of Ghost Town USA still have an amazing opportunity to seek and search for the elusive ghosts that surround the City-by-the-Bay.

SHRIMP

Our first stop will be east of San Rafael, which is just north of the junction of US 101, and I-580, a dozen or so miles north of San Francisco. Head east out of San Rafael on 3rd St., which turns into Pt. San Pedro Road. Follow it around the San Rafael Peninsula, which separates San Francisco Bay from San Pablo Bay. Just north of McNears Beach County Park a small sign will designate China Camp State Park. In a half mile, a side road leads down the low bluff to the China Camp Historic Area and the tiny ghost town of CHINA CAMP (Marin Co.).

(An alternate way to reach the site is to travel east on the North San Pedro Road, 5.3 miles east of US 101, at the Santa Venetia exit, two miles north of San Rafael.)

This Chinese shrimping village squats on a small beach along the mudflats of San Pablo Bay. It was established possibly as early as the 1860s, and was in full operation by 1870. The Chinese fishermen used nets for capturing the shrimp, and dried their catch in a brick oven, and then exported them all over the world. The camp is just one of seven similar camps that lined inlets and coves on the peninsula. They were all active until around 1930.

In 1870, the seven camps on the San Rafael Peninsula had a population of 76 men, aged 12-62. According to a sign on the property, the 1880 population was 469. Other amenities included "30 women, 31 children, a school teacher, a barber, two gardeners, a doctor, and three general stores."

South of San Francisco, where Hunter's Point Naval Shipyard recently was, was the site of another dozen camps.

On April 10, 1996, 12 buildings remained at China Camp, along with a long wharf and a small mechanical enclosure. Five of the structures are identifiable as residential cabins (one lived in by the park caretaker). Three are right on the beach, while two are on the side of the hill above the complex, one of which still is furnished with period furniture. Other identifiable buildings include a processing shed with a brick drying oven, a store (which appears to be open at times), and a visitor center. The others were probably used for storage or other operations at the site.

There is a $3.00 parking fee, and a caretaker on site keeps an eye on this wonderful little ghost. CHINA CAMP also has its own website.

CHINA CAMP (Marin Co.):

· T2N, R5W, Mount Diablo Meridian (sections not shown on GNIS)

· Latitude: 38.0007558 / 38° 00’ 03” N

· Longitude: -122.4616407 / 122° 27’ 42” W

COAL

To the southeast, on a clear day, the hulk of Mt. Diablo is visible as it shoulders its way 3849' into the sky above the hills east of Oakland and Berkeley. Our next stop will be at Black Diamond Mines Regional Park, six miles northeast of that mountain.

Black Diamond Mines Regional Park is unique in California, in that it was established to preserve the history of the Mount Diablo Coal Mining District. This Contra Costa County historic mining district is designated as State Historic Landmark #932.

The park's visitor center is on Somersville Road, 2.7 miles south of the intersection of Somersville Road and SH 4 in Antioch. Stop here, browse and pick up literature and maps that will make your visit more enjoyable and meaningful. To reach the actual town sites, drive 1.2 miles further south to the parking area, which is at the site of Somersville.

If you enjoy hiking over rolling hilly countryside, then this is an excellent place to explore. It is also accessible for those that enjoy mountain biking.

The vast majority of coal "booms" in California were just flashes-in-the-pan, but this was the only bonafide coal boom in the state. Here 12 major mines produced a reported four million tons of coal, and were supported by five towns. The first discoveries were made around 1855, but by the late 1880s, the region faded, although mining continued sporadically until 1914 or so.

In 1865, development began on the first of the three standard gauge railroad lines reaching up the canyons from stations along the San Joaquin River. In 1868 a major earthquake created a lot of problems in the mines, but mining continued. When mining finally slowed in the 1880s, the towns died, and most of the buildings were moved to other communities throughout the area. Today all that remains of the towns and mines is rubble, mine openings, tailing piles, graded railroad beds and trails between the town sites.

SOMERSVILLE is located in the "Y" shaped draw stretching from the parking area, up towards the cemetery, and off to the southeast. Mining at the site of Somersville began in 1855 after the Union Mine was discovered. The town was established in 1859, and named after Francis Somers, who was one of the co-discoverers of the Black Diamond mine over in Nortonville.

In 1866, the Pittsburg Railroad, was run up Markley Canyon from Pittsburg Landing (midway between Pittsburg and Antioch). It was active until 1916. (Some sources claim the Pittsburg Mine closed in 1902, and others in 1907. Would the railroad have been necessary as the Pittsburg was the last mine operating?)

At the south end of the parking lot, concrete, rocks and huge bolts remain to mark the foundations of the Independence Mine, the northernmost mine in the coal belt. It began operation in 1865, but closed two years later. It was then used as a drainage sump for the nearby Eureka Mine. In 1873 the boiler exploded, killing 2 men, and scattering debris a quarter mile away. Other mines at Somersville included the Manhattan, Eureka, Union and Pittsburg mines.

From 1922-1949, sand mining took place at both Somersville and Nortonville's abandoned sites.

On a slope west of, and overlooking the site of Somersville, is the Rose Hill Cemetery, the final resting place for about 200 folks. Many of the few remaining marked graves are those of children who died in various epidemics during the 1870s period. The site of the cemetery was originally owned by the Black Diamond Coal Company.

Over the ridge about 0.8 miles west of the cemetery, is the site of NORTONVILLE. It was named after Noah Norton, who was said to be one of the co-discoverers of the Black Diamond vein. The town site is reached by trail from Somersville. A photo in the visitor center shows a close packed town of wooden buildings that in the 1870s claimed a population of 900, and was the largest of the five towns in the district. It was established around 1859. Development of the town included a hotel in 1863, a store in 1865, and a school in 1866. In 1878 a major fire wiped out many of the buildings.

The Black Diamond Coal & Railroad Co. ran a railroad line from Pittsburg (then called Black Diamond) to Nortonville which really stimulated activity.

On July 24, 1876, the Black Diamond Mine exploded, killing six miners. This coupled with the fire two years later marked the beginning of a decade-long decline in production for the mine, which closed down in May, 1885, killing the town.

Some mining continued off and on until the railroad shut down in 1910. (Again, another source claims the railroad shut down in 1885.)

The site of STEWARTSVILLE is located two miles by trail southeast of Somersville. It was named after mine owner William B. Stewart. A third railroad line, the Empire Coal Mine & Railroad Co., ran from Antioch to Stewartsville, West Hartley and Judsonville, with short spurs reaching the Star and Empire Mines. It began operation in 1881, and ceased operation in 1898 after the Central Mine shut down.

All that remains at Stewartsville are olive and walnut trees on Stewart's home site, the railroad bed, tailing piles, "Prospect Tunnel", and 80 miles of underground workings. Stewart's mine, later called the Central Mine, operated from 1865 to 1898. The Prospect Tunnel was an 1860s prospect that went back only 400 feet, 200 of which are still open for exploration.

JUDSONVILLE and WEST HARTLEY's sites are located in the far southeast corner of the park, about a mile east of Stewartsville, and near the Star Mine, another of the dozen major mines.

SOMERSVILLE (Contra Costa Co.):

· T2N, R5W, Mount Diablo Meridian (sections not shown on GNIS)

· Latitude: 37.9566871 / 37° 57’ 25” N

· Longitude: -121.8644016 / 121° 51’ 52” W

NORTONVILLE (Contra Costa Co.):

· T2N, R5W, Mount Diablo Meridian (sections not shown on GNIS)

· Latitude: 37.9577004 / 37° 57’ 28” N

· Longitude: -121.8805132 / 121° 52’ 50” W

JUDSONVILLE (Contra Costa Co.):

· T2N, R5W, Mount Diablo Meridian (sections not shown on GNIS)

· NOT LISTED BY GNIS

STEWARTSVILLE (Contra Costa Co.): (Listed in GNIS as STEWARTVILLE - No “S”)

· T2N, R5W, Mount Diablo Meridian (sections not shown on GNIS)

· Latitude: 37.9463119 / 37° 56’ 47” N

· Longitude: -121.8485678 / 121° 50’ 55” W

WEST HARTLEY (Contra Costa Co.):

· T2N, R5W, Mount Diablo Meridian (sections not shown on GNIS)

· Latitude: 37.9404787 / 37° 56’ 26” N

· Longitude: -121.8127334 / 121° 48’ 46” W

We've just explored one of the state's most urbanized regions. As you've discovered, the followers of Ghost Town USA have an amazing opportunity to seek and search for the elusive ghosts that surround the City-by-the-Bay. There are still dozens of other ghosts and near ghosts in this area we didn't explore this go around, but I'll leave them for you to find.

This was our GHOST TOWN OF THE MONTH for June 2000.

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FIRST POSTED: June 01, 2000

LAST UPDATED: November 06, 2010

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