Gold, Burros, and Whispers of the Past
OATMAN, Arizona
by
In June 2012, the Speck
family’s annual Ghost Town USA expedition began ubiquitously with a two-hour delay in the heart of California’s Mojave Desert. East-bound traffic slowed then stopped at a
point midway between Kelbaker and Essex roads, west
of Fenner and several miles from the next exit. About a mile to the east, a column
of black smoke rose slowly over what appeared to be the
highway. As cars vomited
stranded motorists onto the blacktop in the 100 degree heat,
we all knew it was going to be a long wait.
Of course I’m sure that all of us were thankful it wasn’t us causing
that column of smoke! About two hours
later traffic began moving, and less than a mile east of where we enjoyed our
late morning rest stop, the Ghost Town Express passed the burned-out hulk of a
tractor-trailer. As it didn’t collide with anyone or anything, the driver was
unhurt. Embarrassed and upset, maybe. But, unhurt.
After lunch and a gas-up in Needles with a penny-under $5.00 gas
(OUCH!), we crossed the Colorado River into Arizona then exited I-40 at Topock, taking aim at the first of our numerous stops on a
two-week, 14 state, 5000+ mile odyssey. After passing the straggling remains of Old
Trails, we rolled into the south end of OATMAN,
parked our van in front of a ruin-filled
lot next to the Glory
Hole museum and antiques store.
Then we joined other curious
tourists and the scads
of burros strolling the streets and sidewalks of this historic old gold
mining town.
Oatman’s story
begins around 1902 with the discovery of gold ore by Ben Paddock. A year later he sold to Col. Thomas Ewing and
Judge E.M. Ross. They in turn sold to
the
In 1908, the Bluebird Mine - also known as the Tom Reed Mine -
began its $13 million, 24 year run. A
sister mine, the United Eastern produced $15 million during the slightly
shorter timeframe of 1913 through 1926.
During this period, Oatman was the largest
town in the county, with a population some claim
reached 10,000. Oatman
was also a major stopping point on Route 66, and its long main street lined
with wooden false
fronts was (and still is) a major tourism draw. Oatman was a rising
star for the first 40 years of the 20th century, and it wasn’t until the
government ordered mine closing in 1942 that the historic old mining town
faded. That is borne out by the fact
that in 1940, some 500 folks still lived here.
This was when the WPA Guide to Arizona called Oatman an “old-time mining
camp with modern touches...” But after the mines were shuttered, it faded
rapidly. After the war ended, only
scattered tourism and its position on US Highway (Route) 66 kept it hanging in
there, another of the West’s tough little towns refusing to die
gracefully. BUT. In the early 1950s, Oatman’s
was gutted when Route 66 was realigned and rerouted far to the south and east,
completely bypassing the town. Its
reason to live was gone, and all that remained were about 60 loyal Oatmanites who hung around to “make sure everybody
got out all right.”
Despite the twentieth century boom and modern fire-fighting
methods, Oatman still experienced a couple disastrous
conflagrations that left large gaps in the building-lined business
district. Even so, enough remained, so
that during the 1960s and 1970s, folks rediscovered this hidden gem, and a
rebirth began. In 2010, the census
counted 135 folks here living in 74 of the available 112 housing units (34%
vacancy rate). These are the folks that
have reclaimed Oatman’s glory days, fixed up the
stores, and hung out the welcome mat.
Many of the stores along the main
street have been turned into Route 66 memorabilia sales outlets, or other
tourist-dollar
attractors. Four-legged, long-eared,
carrot-sucking greeters wander about the main street slowing traffic and
mooching edibles from tourists - so watch your goodies! These great-great grand-offspring from the
mining days have become Oatman’s largest draw and the
town capitalizes on that, drawing tourists from around the world looking to
experience the Wild West ambiance of Oatman. However, please exercise caution around the
burros as they are not “pets” but semi-civilized wild animals.
On an earlier trip to Oatman in 1997, we
experienced the aggressive personalities of these critters. As is our custom, we have become ghost town
(or semi-ghost town) ice cream connoisseurs, sampling the frozen wares in many
of the places we stop. During this
particular episode on a hot summer afternoon, we had finished wandering about
the colorful main street and parked our tired “down-sitters” on a shady bench
under the canopy in front of one of the stores.
My wife handed me a drumstick she had just purchased and as I peeled the
paper off the frozen treat, the wrapper disappeared and I nearly lost the cone
to the vacuum cleaner lips of an inquisitive burro colt that snuck up behind
me. Just then the screen door flew open
and another burro colt bounced out of the store, followed by the storekeeper
wielding a roll of newspaper.
“And stay out!”
Such was life in Oatman in 1997.
Fifteen years later, life in Oatman
hasn’t changed much. The burros still
steal what they can from unwary tourists, or those that actually find the
special burro chow to feed them with.
Tour busses arrive, packed to the gills with their cargoes of
German-speaking, blond, blue-eyed folks toting Zeiss
cameras and brown-eyed, black haired Sony-toting Japanese tourists. We were lucky during our last visit as there
were no mechanical worms, so it was just us and a couple hundred drive-in
tourists mixed scores of burros!
Even without the packaged bus-delivered tourists, there were still
a lot of folks strolling the sidewalks, shopping in the stores and steeping
back into time at the Oatman Hotel and its famous dollar
bill-covered restaurant.
Looking out onto the street through the dollar
bill-lined window frames makes for an interesting view of
the town. The shady
sidewalk in front of the hotel is inviting, and the weathered
sign hanging over the street is showing its age, although it’s not
nearly as old as the hotel. If you are
real vigilant, you might even spot a ghost
waving to you. Just up the street is the old Oatman Theatre Building with
its corrugated tin siding and faded
sign on the parapet. While
wandering the streets of this town, also look for the details of a past
life. Seek out the painted
details of windows, old and
new murals
and faded
signs. Chuckle at little
whimsical touches that often get overlooked; such as some of the business
signs - and my favorite - a very under-stated warning
sign in front of a cactus patch on the south side of Main Street. It would truly be best to abide by it! There are also numerous artistic pieces such
as wall
art made from cast-offs, scattered about. In addition, like in any other
self-respecting mining town, there are relics of the old days lying about. Check out the old mining ore
car and rock
breaker. Both remain to share their historic past
with those who seek it out!
I was enjoying taking photos of the town when my son Matthew came
up and said he found
a copy of my first book, Dust in the Wind - A
Guide to American Ghost Towns on the shelf in one of the stores. Of course I had to check it out, and after
speaking with the storekeeper, I autographed it for them.
It was finally time to leave.
After loading up the van, we headed up Main Street, and followed old
Route 66 north as it twisted and turned, finally delivering us to our next stop
at GOLDROAD,
leaving us with many memories of gold, hungry
burros and whispers of the past.
OATMAN:
·
SW¼ Sec 14, SE¼ Sec 15,
NW¼ Sec 23, T19N, R20W, Gila & Salt River Meridian
·
Latitude: 35.0263915 / 35° 01' 35" N
·
Longitude: -114.3835698 / 114° 23' 01" W
This in conjunction with GOLDROAD
was our GHOST TOWN OF THE MONTH for March 1999.
With a major 2012 update, and addition of photos,
it was reposted as
our GHOST TOWN OF THE MONTH
for September 2012.
Oatman is one of the towns
featured in my newest book, GHOST
TOWNS: Yesterday & TodayTM.
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THIS
PAGE
FIRST
POSTED: March
01, 1999 (as Oatman & Goldroad)
LAST
UPDATED: October 05, 2012 (split into separate pages)
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